The arches on the left, of course, from Mezquita-Catedral, not photoshopped or anything, just taken from a fortuitous angle... turn one way and be faced with a long perspective of time and light, so much so that you think there must be a trick in a mirror. Then turn to another direction and catch sight of the double arches, redoubling themselves into another distance. Quiet and empty yet full of people also bemused, fascinated, contemplative and no doubt footsore...
The Catedral, built in its centre, is not so easy to see as a separate place of worship... it is all to the same end. The workmen who made it used much arab detailing in its christian decoration, and a great deal of baroque gold in which the striped buttresses are reflected.
This other arch is in our patio apartment in Barrionuevo, bougainvillea spilling over the roof, tall white lilies framing the door, another haven... Embrujo de Alhazar (the enchantment of orange blossom)
Opposite our room in the hotel Castillias II (Calle del Marques Viudo de Pontejos!, almost as long as its name) the wonderful Amparo Merceria: haberdashery wholesale, with buttons, feathers, tapes, rouleaux, communion veils, pincushions, lace and lacemaking kits, zips, gold trim, lace stockings, sold to the general public as well ... in a whole street of fabric-sellers and other mercerias, and Borca SA, selling tablecloths, linen bread bags, window screens, and mantons, one of those very famous flamenco-flavoured embroidered shawls reduced.. to 1500€ !
I never knew there were so many styles of espadrilles!
I now have a Basque pair (the red ones) for the Sept Sauts, and Michael bought brown Valencian ones, for wearing to give authenticity to his talk about Miguel Herndandez in a few days' time..
... more to come from this Town of Mercerias...
Another lovely town, although it rained and rained... the church of Saint Domingo has the 24 Musicians of the Apocalypse playing on its main door's timpanum... though with 23 instruments as two people are playing this hurdy gurdy!
Two very different images from the one usually associated with 'Guernica'... a poster for the Armagh Ramblers who had a concert in Gernika with financial support from the Basque regional government, and the Henry Moore sculpture Large Figure in a Shelter. Gernika is a lovely little place, a lively market with lots of small vegetable seedlings being sold in blocks at this time of year, cakes of ground almonds & oranges, and a dedicated man running the Euskadi Souvenirs shop... we bought a Kepa Xunkera CD, dance postcards and a T shirt!
